Components:

1. Magnet Wire

2. 15 5x5x1 NE50 magnets

3. Rotor Can

4. Stator

5. 3mm shaft

6. Bearing

7. Bearing Housing * Replaced by carbon Fiber (CF)

8. 11/32 brass tube * Replaced by carbon Fiber   (CF) 8mm OD

9. Plywood motor mounts

10. Heat shrink tube

11. .050 CF rod

 

*Will replace Brass pictures this week sometime

Not included in kit but very good adhesive for assembling the bonded components.  Tutorial will assume it's use.

 

 

 

Parts than need primer *Note Brass Pieces are now Carbon Fiber

 

 

 

Apply primer liberally to the inside of the stator can

Coat the inside of each end of the brass tube.  You only need one, but you may forget which one you primed later * Now CF

 

 

Apply Primer to bearing holder around where the Brass tube will go and where the stator will go * Now CF

 

 

 

Take 2 magnets stuck together and apply Primer to both sides of the stack.

Time to make the magnet placement wand.  Apply adhesive to one end of the CF rod,  

( be careful not to let primer coated items touch the end of the adhesive dispenser as it will foul the tip)

 

 

 

Glue the CF rod to the top magnet.  Let it dry for several minutes before moving it.  Then remove the 2nd magnet flip it over and glue it to the CF rod as well.  The goal is get on magnet pushing away from the rod and one pulling towards it.  Or positive/Negative.  Let the Wand dry for a while as the magnets need to be firmly attached prior to making up the rotor.

Put adhesive in one end of the brass tube,  both ends were primed right?

*This step is eliminated with the CF models

 

 

Press the Brass tube and bearing housing together in a vise till they seat firmly together.  Pressing the parts together in a drill press is also a good method here.  *This step is eliminated with the CF models

Apply a bit of adhesive to the front of the bearing housing and gently twist the stator into place.

 

 

 

Set the bearing into the bearing housing just like shown,  Tapered end down. * Use a tiny DAB of thin CA to secure the bearing in the CA tube.

Use a HS-50 or similar servo arm as a drift and the vice and press the bearing into place look at next photo for proper depth.

 

 

 

Bearing is to be pressed flush with the bottom of the internal groove inside the bearing housing

Use a sharp Knife to remove the little tab on the stator.

Important!  Read!

Time for magnets.  We will place 6 positive and 6 negative magnets.  If you place all the same polarity you will have a nice refrigerator magnet.  Wrap one end of your want in a bit of tape so you will not use it for the first 6 magnets.  Place a magnet from your stack on the uncovered magnet on the wand.  Apply a dot of glue to the face of the magnet large enough to fill the gap behind the magnet and the curve of the can.

Take your time with the magnets

Using the wand with the glued up magnet place the magnet in the rotor can directly above one of the 3 cooling holes.  Make sure the magnet is tight against the curve of the can and close if not flush with the edge.  Count to 90 or so and you should be able to slide the wand off and leave the magnet behind.

Tip - Put the adhesive on the edges of the magnet where it will contact the curved surface of the can.

 

 

 

Repeat with two other magnets

Important!  Read!

Mark between each of the three magnets in place and add 3 more.  The positives are now complete.  Remove the tape on the end of the wand and move it to the other end.

 

 

Edge shot

NOTE: Feb 5 2005

We have found that the motor works a lot better if the magnets are allowed to protrude out the back of the can 1/32"

 

All 12 magnets installed.  Test with the wand and make sure that every other magnet is reversed polarity

NOTE: Feb 5 2005

We have found that the motor works a lot better if the magnets are allowed to protrude out the back of the can 1/32"

 

 

 

2 ways to press the shaft in. 

1. The hard way, not the preferred method

Be very careful of alignment!

Long end goes away from the can and into the bearing. 

Press the shaft in till the plastic clip touches.

2. The preferred method is to use a drill press.  Put the long side in the chuck, and gently press the shaft in till you feel a bit of resistance

 

 

Ready to wind. start with green,  Allow 4 " to hang below the stator and start with tooth number on which is indicated by a key way on the stator.  Start on the left side of the tooth as you look at it and wrap clockwise.  Wind 2 turns keeping the wire taught and stop to push the coils inward

Here is a shot of coils 1 through 8, continue with 9 to 16 working inwards.

 

 

 

Here is 9 - 16, continue on to turn 20 ending on the right hand side opposite of the starting position.

 

 

All 3 pins with 20 turns, the long wire is the start and the short wire is the end (Doh).  All the ends get tied together the starts go to the ESC.

Top View, red pins start one to the left of the green start.

 

 

 

Here is the red start with 1 turn on it.

 

 

 

Top view with green and red phases completed.

 

 

 

Complete the gold phase like green and red and trim starts and ends as shown.

Scrape the enamel of the starts and ends on the last 1/4 inch.  Scrape on side flip over and scrape the other side.

 

 

Tin all 6 scrapped ends with solder,  If you dwell on the end for a few seconds and use enough solder on the tip you can float all the enamel from the end off of the wire.

Twist the 3 ends together and solder them together

 

 

 

Twisted

Soldered

Ready for pre testing,  hook up the motor to a out of the bag Castle Creations Phoenix 10 ESC.

Red to Green

White to Red

Black to Gold

Power up and see what you have. The motor should spin very smooth up and down the speed range.

Install and shrink the tubing over the leads

Functional testing

Install a 9x5 GWS HD prop and fire it up.  Should almost pull out of your hand.  If it runs in reverse switch any 2 of the phases

Assemble motor mount, Cut 3 CF rods to 5/8"

 

 

 

Trim Ply Pieces

Insert CF rods and CA them in place

 

 

 

Insert brass or Carbon Fiber tube into motor mount and use a slight bit of CA to hold secure

Remove the old tired IPS drive and slide the new sleek powerful motor in it's place.

 

 

 

 

Put in the speed control and go fly!